For private sales on Marketplace, Kijiji, Craigslist and AutoTrader
Buying from a private seller? Check the car before you pay.
There's no dealer to go back to after a private sale, so the checking has to happen first. Type the 17-character VIN from the listing: you'll see where it was built and its model year right here, then you can check its title history for salvage, flood, odometer and theft records.
On the buyer's side. We take no money from dealers or sellers. We're paid only if you buy a history report through our link, and we'll tell you when you don't need one.
New: updated monthly
Is the car you're looking at still covered?
Carmakers quietly extend warranties on known problems, and the coverage usually passes to the next owner. Honda just extended head gasket coverage on many 2016–2026 Civics, Accords and CR-Vs to 10 years or 150,000 miles. Sellers rarely know, and dealers rarely mention it.
See every active warranty extensionWhat a history check can show you
- Salvage, flood and junk brandsFrom any state, even if the current title looks clean.
- Insurance total lossesWhether an insurer wrote the car off after a crash, flood or fire.
- Odometer readingsReadings over time. One that goes backwards suggests a rollback.
- Theft recordsWhether it was reported stolen.
- Past sale and auction listingsOld ads and auction photos, sometimes showing damage.
- Accidents and damageWhen they were reported to a source the report uses.
What it can't show: accidents nobody reported, or the car's condition today. That's what a mechanic's inspection is for. More on what reports show, and the free checks to run first.
Where to find the VIN
Dashboard
Look through the windshield at the bottom corner on the driver's side.
Driver's door frame
Open the door. It's on the sticker on the pillar, with the tire pressures.
Title or ownership
The title (US) or ownership permit (Canada) shows it too.
All three should match exactly. If one is different, scratched or covered, walk away. A swapped or cloned VIN is how stolen and rebuilt cars get sold as clean.
Six things to do before you pay
Get the VIN before you drive out
Ask the seller to text it. Use the button above to copy a ready-made message.
Run the VIN
Check the title history, then look up open recalls, which are repaired free at the dealer.
Check the paperwork
The title or ownership should be in the seller's name, matching their ID. Ask if there's money owing on the car. In Ontario, ask for the UVIP.
See it in daylight, when it's dry
Rain and darkness hide dents, paint repairs and leaks. Look underneath for rust and check the tire date codes.
Drive it for 20 minutes
City streets, the highway and one rough road, with the radio off. Brake hard once in a safe spot.
Get a pre-purchase inspection
An independent mechanic can see what you can't. If the seller won't allow it, that's your answer.
Take the checklist to the viewing
A one-page list of everything to look at, listen for and ask, so you don't forget anything with the seller watching. Free, no email needed.
Download the checklist (PDF)Still covered?
Which history report should you buy?
- Carfax vs AutoCheck vs EpicVIN: which history report should you buy?What each report costs, what it's good at, and when to pay for which.
- Free VIN check: what you can find out for free (and what it misses)The free lookups worth doing, and what they can't tell you.
- Is EpicVIN legit? An honest review for used-car buyersWhat it is, what you get, what it costs, and who it isn't for.
Used models: years to avoid
- Used Honda Civic: years to avoid and what to checkCracked blocks, transmissions, oil dilution and A/C: which years and what to check.
- Used Toyota RAV4: years to avoid and what to check2006–08 oil burning, the 2013–18 battery recall and the 2019–20 Hybrid tank.
- Used Honda CR-V: years to avoid and what to check2017–18 oil dilution, the 2015 vibration, and what to check on any CR-V.
- Used Toyota Corolla: years to avoid and what to check2005–08 stalling recall, 2009–10 issues, and what to check on newer CVTs.
- Used Ford F-150: years to avoid and what to check5.4L spark plugs, the downshift recall, EcoBoost phasers and the 10-speed.
Scams and title problems
- What a vehicle history report shows, and the free checks to run firstWhat's in a report, what it misses, and the free checks to run first.
- Facebook Marketplace car scams: 7 red flags and the safe way to buyDeposits, fake report links, cloned VINs, and how to buy safely.
- Salvage title explained: what it means and whether to buy oneSalvage, rebuilt, flood and junk brands, and how to check them by VIN.
- Title washing: how a damaged car gets a clean titleHow salvage and flood brands disappear between states, and how to catch it.
- Odometer rollback: how to tell if the mileage is fakeWear that doesn't match the miles, records that go backwards, and what to do.
- How to spot a flood-damaged car before you buyNine checks you can do in ten minutes, and the VIN history.
- How to read a VIN: what each of the 17 characters meansCountry, model year and the check digit that catches fake VINs.
Buying in Ontario
- What is a UVIP? Ontario's Used Vehicle Information Package explainedWhat's in the package, who has to provide it, and its blind spots.
- How to check if a used car has a lien in OntarioUVIP, the PPSA search by VIN, and what to do if there's money owing.
- How much tax do you pay on a used car in Ontario?13% on the price or the wholesale value, with worked examples.
- Ontario safety certificate: what it covers, and what it doesn'tMinimum standards on one day, valid 36 days, and why it isn't a warranty.
- Curbsiders in Ontario: how to spot a fake private sellerIllegal dealers posing as private sellers, and the signs that give them away.
- Salvage, rebuilt and irreparable: Ontario vehicle brands explainedWhat each brand means, which can be driven, and why 'None' isn't a guarantee.
- How to tell if a used car in Canada came from the USRIV labels, mph speedometers, UVIP gaps, and checking the US title history.
Questions
Is the VIN check free?
Decoding the VIN on this page is free. When you continue to EpicVIN you see a free summary of the vehicle first. The full history report is paid, and you decide after seeing the summary.
Does it work for cars in Canada?
EpicVIN's records are strongest for vehicles with US history, including the many used cars in Canada that came from the US. For a car that has only been registered in Ontario, the UVIP is the official record, so get both.
Do I still need an inspection if the history is clean?
Yes. A history report shows what was reported. A mechanic shows what's wrong with the car today.
What does the check digit tell me?
The 9th character of a North American VIN is calculated from the other 16. If it doesn't add up, the VIN was typed wrong or may have been altered.
Who is this site for?
Anyone buying a used car, but especially from a private seller. There's no dealer licence, warranty or regulator behind a private sale, so checking before you pay matters most there.
How does this site make money?
Through the paid link to EpicVIN: if you buy a report after using the box, we earn a commission at no extra cost to you. We take no money from dealers or sellers, and the guides are free.